Namaste

So I'm finally settled enough to turn my scrambled thoughts into something a bit more comprehensible. I arrived on Friday at around 10pm. After waiting for the last of my luggage, I got a pre-paid taxi to Nizamuddin East, where my flat is located. Once you step outside of the airport, there is a crowd of men waiting to snatch up the tourists who haven't pre-paid and to scam the ones who have. A man immediately grabs my receipt and asks "pre-paid?" I tell him "ji haa" and he takes my guitar case and walks toward the opposite side of the area. He asks where I am going, and then what Hotel I am staying at...this is when I realize he was trying to rip me off by telling me that the Hotel burned down, is full, etc. and taking me to another where he would get a commission. I take back my receipt and guitar and head back the other way.

The taxi driver speaks little broken English, but enough to appreciate my asking that he turn the radio on. We listen to Hindi slow jams all the way to Niz.

Katharina Bhatia, my land lord and flat mate, is a very German, older woman. Kit-Kat, as I lovingly call her (but never to her face), lives in a beautiful three-bedroom flat in Nizamuddin East, surrounded by small gardens, court yards, and within a five minute walk of Humayun's Tomb (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Humayun). Kit-Kat enjoys going to her country club to socialize, talking about her sons, and complaining about Sophia. She answers most questions in two parts: "One, (something). And two, (something else)." Kit-Kat likes to answer a stated fact (given by me) with the response, "Oh, I don't know."

Her servant, Sophia (Sa-fiya), speaks no English and barely any Hindi. She is completely illiterate, and so I must rely on Kit-Kat to translate for me. I smile a lot and hope that she realizes that I do not expect her to do anything for me at all. Although I have to admit, my life here thus far is pretty bourgeoisie, most people living in New Delhi have someone to clean the floors and cook every day. Also, no one here does their own laundry. Dobhi's (like in Harry Potter--oh praise Allah for underlying pro-union themes!) take clothing to wash in the river or in designated washing areas. I plan to do mine in the sink. Sophia is an amazing cook and I am happy to say that I have yet to encounter any incidents of "delhi belly."

Saturday, Kit-Kat and I went touring around in her car (everything is on the left like in the UK). She graciously took me around to see our neighborhood, the Gate, all of the official government buildings (very beautiful and liberally modeled on D.C.), the President and Prime Minister's houses, Khan Market, and the Habitat Center where I will work at the ILO.
After taking a late nap, I went to a party in GK 1 (Greater Kailash) which Andy had invited me to. I almost lived with Andy, but the timing didn't work out. He's an expat from the UK, and was nice enough to invite me to his flat-warming party as sort of consolation prize. At the party were his flat-mates (Rahil and Lauren), some friends of friends, all of his male colleagues, and everyone who was at one point a potential flat-mate. I had a great time and met a lot of expats, although most of them, even the students, were a bit older. I was lucky enough to meet Hanna, a Swedish journalist who lives in Niz. West, who was more than lovely.

Sunday, Kit-Kat and I went to check out the embassies which are all located on Shanti Path (Shanti means 'peace'--cute huh?). She showed me each and every one, all heavily guarded and inaccessible to most. I have found that the entirety of the city is surrounded by walls. There are walls around everything, including the colonies (neighborhoods). Every single area is gated and given the illusion of safety through the use of these enormous walls.
After the embassy marathon, we went to her country club so she could do her daily walk. The club was very western, despite the absence of any Brits or other actual westerners.
Before going home, Kit-Kat thought it might be a good idea to stop at the vegetarian restaurant at the Ashok hotel in order to try a dosa (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dosa). Pretty much amazing. Although one is too much for a snack--next time I will share it (I wonder if Kit-Kat is into sharing...).
Then I basically slept until 4 in the morning, at which point I began my day with two hours of yoga before Sophia showed up and made us breakfast. There is a yoga center in our colony only right around the corner, so I think I will start going there soon.

Sorry for the length, and also the lack of personal photos, but I am still using Kiki's (another pet-name) computer until the internet is hooked up in my room. At which point I will skype you all like mad.

Love and peace,
Elise

PS-I forgot to mention that I finished reading 'Cunt' which was absolutely incredible. Thanks Aly for recommending it and thanks Ben for letting me steal it : ] Not only was it fun to read, but it gave me the opportunity to say things like "Oh, I must have left my Cuntat home," or Could you please pass me the Cunt?" Also, a man on the plane from ATL to Chicago asked me what I was reading. I smiled and showed him the cover. He turned bright red and waited another twenty minutes before working up the nerve to ask me about its contents. I let him read some of it before we landed, couldn't gauge his reaction. Anyway, incredibly empowering book which inspired a long and wonderful conversation about many things with Kristin, among other great externalities.